Tuesday, January 15, 2019

96 - Indian Teachers; Demi Gods – Ethiopian Journey



Come May and Bahirdar City was buzzing with palpable excitement. It was preparing for a day that all its citizens have been waiting for – Graduation Day or in other words Bahirdar University’s Annual Convocation. Bahirdar University was young and it was established in May 2001. We would be part of the second convocation of the Bahirdar University!

Our Diploma students of Marketing and Sales; and of Accounting were awash with excitement. In India a basic degree is taken for granted, so much so that graduation ceremony of a basic degree is unheard of.

Quite paradoxically global schools in India celebrate the graduation of their kindergarten students with pomp, glory and quite ceremoniously but a basic degree goes unnoticed and infact many institutes dont have graduation ceremonies. Thankfully some private institutions have turned the clock back and are celebrating the graduation of their students.

Education in Ethiopia was a ticket to a better life and in 2003, even students having diplomas in Sales and Marketing could land jobs in government sector. Graduates could hope for a better life and use the degree as a springboard for moving ahead in life. Graduation ceremony was coming of age for the family. It was very common for the entire family and in some cases extended families of uncles, aunties and friends to descend in Bahirdar and take up all types of accommodation including camping in the open!!!

It was unimaginable, they would spend days together in travelling. They would sell their very limited assets and that included their livestock to see their son or daughter get decked up in a three-piece suit to be at their best for the day of their life – the graduation ceremony.

New clothes, new shoes and a new tie would be bought. Men and women would splurge on looking at their best. Also accompanying them, was the omnipresent photographers. Bahirdar photographers would make a killing by charging a bomb. But no one really minded. It was one heck of a celebration - a celebration of a life time to be cherished, remembered and recited for generations to come, till it becomes a folklore and a piece of family history.

Our Dean called us and invited us for the graduation ceremony – we were all awaiting and jumped at the offer, “What is the dress code?” I asked him. “Yes, yes, you can take the faculty robes from the University stores” He responded.

We collected the robes from the university stores and brought them home. And we all had fun. Padma, Krishna (Suresh’s wife) and Shilpa (Kuldeep’s wife) too wore the official robes and took snaps. Wearing ceremonial robes was new for us. We had never attended a graduation ceremony neither as students nor as faculty.

The night before the graduation ceremony, skies opened up. It was an awesome sight. It rained so heavily that we feared that the graduation ceremony would be postponed. But the rain decreased by 05:00 a.m. in the morning and completely stopped by around seven.

“Amma, Amma, amma” Pranav dashed into the drawing room. “We have a swimming pool in our garden” Even though he was exaggerating, it was close to truth. Our entire garden has disappeared under massive flood of water. There was no garden at all. There was water standing everywhere and it was sticky as hell. The road in front of the house was totally gone. It was a scene from Chirapunji (the place in India that received the highest rainfall in the world!).


But the show had to go on. We got dressed and I wore my official robes and we stepped out, gingerly. The trip from our house to the main road that leads to the university generally takes 3 to 5 minutes’ time. That day it took fifteen minutes. We had to watch our steps with an eagle eye. One wrong move and we could be in a mud sliding competition!

The scene at the main road took our breath away. There was a sea of humanity on the main road. They were all whooping and making their way slowly but steadily to the graduation venue. The humidity, the slushy road and the muggy weather were no dampeners. There was laughter all around and beautiful yet soulful Ethiopian music which wafted to our ears. The party was on. “Bahirdar University, here we come” I said to myself.  


The minute they saw me, they all slowed down. They came in hordes. The graduating students were easy to identify, they wore western suits and the family members too were dressed in their best. The students would give a shy smile and then shake hands. The elders would do the same and then there would be a request for a snap (photo). I was quite non plussed. I would have been stopped at least 30 times before we walked the one kilometre distance to the PEDA campus where the graduation ceremony was being held.

“You taught them all???” Padma was gaping. The family would cheerfully pose with Padma and the kids too. Even I had the same sneaky impression. Most of them were definitely NOT MY students. I was puzzled, to say the least.

The first Indian I saw at the graduation ceremony was Dr. Naidu, the Bheeshma Pithamaha of Bahirdar University – the senior most Indian teacher. I told him about my predicament. “Why am I being asked to pose for so many photographs”. Dr. Naidu burst out in laughter.

“Oh Anil” he was rocking front and back. “That was so funny” he wiped away the tears of laughter. “Priceless, to say the least. Get used to it. Indian teachers are highly revered in Ethiopia. It is a matter of great pride to be taught by an Indian teacher. It is said that President Meles himself was taught by Indian teachers. Ethiopian students want to show to their extended family that they have been taught by Indian teachers. It is the same as Indians studying USA claiming that they have been taught by teachers who studied in Harvard or in Stanford. It is a badge of honour”.

The irony is we dont appreciate the magnitude or the significance of events as they are unfolding in front of our eyes. I was clicked so many times that the flash light at the end of the day were a minor irritant. I sympathized the life of celebrities chased by the press and the paparazzi. But as I reflect back, those days were heavenly.

Being respected, mobbed and continuously badgered for snaps and autographs was manna from the heaven when compared to the present day graduation ceremonies. Most of the students are blasé and self-absorbed. They want to take as many selfies as possible.  At maximum, may be 4 to 5 students want to take snaps with the gurus who have given them knowledge – talk about crass commercialization of education! I would happily give my right arm to be back in 2003, where teachers were revered and considered to be demi gods!