83 - Exams Start – Tree Top Bakery - Bole Road – Tomato Pizza – Avocado Juice – Ethiopian Journey – Blog Post – 83

We were allocated a single room on the 4^th floor. Our room had a window facing a by-lane. It was a compact Ultra-modern room with comfy beds and decent décor and with a spectacular view. It was quite apparent that the by-lane was not as upmarket as the Arat Kilo- Piazza road.

We could see small shops and locals wiling away their time. They were wiry thin and wore the uniform of the world – T shirt and Jeans. Most sported a coat or a jacket to protect themselves from the nippy Addis Ababa weather. 

The T-shirts had the colours of EPL clubs that they belonged to; Manchester United, Liverpool and Arsenal. I could clearly make out images of Samuel Eto, Thierry Henry, Didier Drogba and other football legends of that time on their T-shirts.

Also visible was a small bar and restaurant. The loud noise made by the drunk and brawling clientele wafted through the huge glass window. The bar and restaurant had dim lighting. The effect of the haves (the Tourist hotel clientele) and have Nots (the local Ethiopians) was dramatized by the dim light emitted by the low wattage bulbs that adorned the by-lane.  

Most star hotels insulate themselves from reality and pretend to be islands of opulence, luxury and indulgence. They don’t want their customers to feel, even a little bit of discomfort. The experience needs to be as smooth as silk. But what we were noticing was extra ordinary! We were peeping into the lives of normal middle class Ethiopians and we were ensconced in one of the best hotels of Addis Ababa!  

Even though it was April, it was quite cold and luckily for us Tourist hotel provided warm blankets. There were no fans or an air conditioner. “Don’t worry” Bahirdar University Vice President’s words rang in my ears “the entire country is air conditioned”. Nights can be chilly in Addis Ababa.

Right opposite Tourist hotel was Tree Top Bakery, a small bakery on the first floor of a commercial building. It served decent Tomato Pizzas. Say Pizza and most would think of a sinfully thick Pizza with cheese literally dripping from the sides. Ethiopian Pizza, rather Tree Top Bakery’s Pizza is an ultra-dieters delight. It is almost the size of an Indian Poori with the tiniest of a tomato base smeared on it and ABSOLUTELY NO CHEESE. It was cheese less!  It was very reasonably priced though, only 3 birr.

The first time it was served, Pranav’s eyes opened wide. In all Earnesty and seriousness he finished one and said “Amma, the starter was nice but where is the Pizza?”. He almost fell off the high stool when he was told that it was the main dish and not a starter. Just to pacify him, we bought him another TOMATO PIZZA.

Tree Top Bakery also served Avocado juice, the juice to die for! Customers having Avocado juice in Ethiopia are spoiled!  Avocado juice is so thick that it can’t be drunk like the ‘thin as water’, Indian fruit juices. Indian fruit juices are mostly water and milk based and a little part of the banana, pineapple, apple or avocado is thrown in, to give the correct colour to the fruit juice.

Back in 2003, Ethiopians were innocent and not market savvy. The avocado juice was served in a huge mug and a spoon was provided. We had to eat the FRUIT JUICE. Avocado juice in Ethiopia was one of the most filling and appetite inhibiting fruit drink that I have tasted in the world.

The next day the English exam started at 0830 a.m. in the morning. Pranav was out by 1030 a.m. and said that he fared well in the examination. We did not want to return to Tourist hotel and get cooped up in the room. Azaz Ahmed sir had a brain wave. He suggested that we all go down to Bole Road.

Bole road for, Ethiopians is just like what M. G road is for Bangalore, Madhapur is for Hyderabad, T. Nagar is for Chennai and Connaught Place is for New Delhi. It was the most posh area of Addis Ababa and housed the corporate headquarters of Ethiopian companies. It also housed the embassies of different countries.

Even in 2003, Bole offered impressive sights. On display were Tall skyscrapers, wide roads, expensive and fast cars. Bole had neat promenades, paved roads, hep and svelte Ethiopians and equally fashionable foreigners. It had different hotels offering world cuisines, including Sangam the flag bearer of Indian food in Addis Ababa.

Started in 1973, Sangam served the needs of Indians and Indian cuisine loving foreigners. It served a piece of India! Sangam restaurant closed last year in its earlier premises which was initially owned by Princess Tenagnework, daughter of Emperor Haileselasse. and opened in a new location in Jomo Kenyatta Street. Many Indian teachers’ memories of Addis Ababa are inseparably linked to the Iconic Indian restaurant, Sangam.

Things were quite expensive in Bole road. We roamed the streets and were sauntering along when a scream from Pranav almost shattered our ear-drums “LOOK, LOOK, LOOK, Amma” he was overcome with emotion “ICE CREAM PARLOUR”. Ice-creams are taken for granted by any typical eight-year-old. But not for Pranav. He last tasted regular ice-cream in India. Bahirdar was totally devoid of ice-creams. Padma made ice-cream at home but they did not have neither the smooth texture nor and the flavour/taste of commercially available ice-cream.

We made a pit stop and had ice-creams. Pranav and Sahithi devoured ice-creams, one too many to my comfort. I told myself “what the heck, let them have as many as they can. They will again have ice cream only next year when we would make our annual pilgrimage to Addis Ababa”.

We bought water melon. That night we had sumptuous water melon at Tourist Hotel. Padma was impressed with Addis Ababa. She said “I wish that you get an extension of contract and get a posting in Addis Ababa”. She went on to add “Addis Ababa is nice. Great place to live, has an Indian school and is only five and a half hours away from Mumbai by flight”.   

82 - 4 kilos, 5 kilos and 6 kilos, 'Arat Kilo, Amist Kilo and Sedist Kilo' the poplar hangouts of Addis Ababa - Ethiopian Journey - Blog Post no - 82.

Arat Kilo to Piazza Video 

The next day was 17th March and it was the Indian festival, Holi. We tend to take things for granted when they are easily accessible and yearn for them once they are not. One might have all the money in the world but we can’t get the gaiety, colour and drama of an Indian festival anywhere outside India. 

NRIs might celebrate Indian festivals with pomp, glory, show of class and with richness but with no soul. Indian festivals have to be celebrated in India, period. Holi is celebrated in the Indian Embassy but we were not really in the mood. We were anxious to see with our own eyes Pranav and sahithi’s school for the next four years. 

Early morning Cuppa, Addis Ababa

Mr. Pradeep arrived sharp at 08:00 a.m. and his early arrival caught us napping. Padma and the kids were not ready. Pradeep and me went out to have Shai (tea). Addis Ababa looked like a scene out of an African paradise. Misty, surrounded by mountains and mysterious low hanging clouds that seemed to rub and wanted to envelop us in their cold embrace. Very few street side venders were up and about.  We had to walk quite a distance before we could get a cup of Shai. 

Early morning scene, Addis Ababa

Addis Ababa the capital of Africa as it proudly calls itself is a truly global city. Citizens of Addis are curious about Indians but mostly we were ignored. Some Ethiopians do give a shy smile and some brave hearts do come and shake hands and say “Thank you, Indians are great teachers. My mathematics teacher was from India and he was a wonderful teacher”. Our chest would swell in pride at their generous praise. 

We returned and waiting at the entrance of our room tapping her feet impatiently was Ms. SAHITHI. Drawing up to her full height that her two-and-a-half-year frame could allow, she announced tartly “We are ready and waiting for you.”. I was shell shocked. We did not teach her to speak in English. Seeing her annoyance and pert manner, Pradeep sir was totally taken by surprise. He complimented us on our children’s upbringing. 

Blue and white Line Taxis 

We took the blue and white sharing cabs that were quite popular in Addis Ababa. These beaten up cabs afforded a decent and cheap form of intra city travel. The local city buses were legendary. The cost of travel was dead cheap but travellers are packed to the gills and things can get claustrophobic. We were told that even breathing can become quite tough in peak time travel. The threat of deft pick pocketers getting busy picking our wallets was always lurking in the back of our minds.  One van took us to Arat Kilo and another took us to Piazza. 

Crowded City Buses 

We had to walk hundred yards before the Indian School appeared. First look was quite disappointing. It was an old building. It had a sign on the arch above the gate ‘Indian National School, Addis Ababa, established in the year 1947’, written both in English and in Amharic. This is the school that served the educational needs of Indian and Ethiopian students too. If it was not for the Indian school not many of the Indian families would even, consider coming to Ethiopia. It was the Life-line for Indian children to pursue CBSE education and that too from a foreign country. 

The school was closed but the examination schedule was pasted on the notice board. English on the 18th of March, Hindi on 19th, Mathematics on 20th, Social on 21st and finally Science on the 22nd. Written quite clearly and in big font and size was the examination fee. “External students have to pay examination fee of 140 birr (Rs seven hundred)”. 

Arat Kilo

Pradeep could not hold it any further. He blurted out “Anil Ji, I wanted to ask you. Any particular reason for staying at Bel-Air?”. “Not really sir” was my surprised reply “I find it quite inconvenient and cut off. Away from even small restaurants and shops. The only saving grace is that they allow us to cook”. 

Arat Klo 

“Oh, Oh” Pradeep gave a sympathetic nod “you guys can’t survive without rice”. Padma was offended “not really sir. We can happily eat Injira” “In that case, madam, let us try out Tourist hotel”

We got into a taxi and got off at Arat Kilo. Arat Kilo is Meyazia 27 Square, a square in Addis Ababa as famous as the Times Square, New York. In its centre is the famous monument, commemorating Ethiopia's liberation from Italy. 

Due to its proximity to the Menelik Palace, residence of the Prime Minister of Ethiopia, and the Ethiopian Parliament Building, Arat Kilo is one of the most popular tourist spots of Addis Ababa. 

Arat kilo was buzzing with action. Small shops all-around and hundreds and hundreds of shoe shine boys merrily going about their business. On one side were Ministry of Education’s main offices and bang next to it was TOURIST HOTEL. 

Tourist Hotel, Arat kilo

We went inside and were shocked. The reception area was buzzing with Indians. We could spot at least 3 or 4 Indian families and trailing in their wake were school going children. It was quite clear that TOURIST HOTEL was the preferred destination for Indian teachers in Ethiopia.  

The receptionist gave a beaming smile and apparently she knew Pradeep quite well. “Yes sir, we do have a single room and possibly you might even get a double room by tomorrow”. Seeing our somewhat puzzled faces, she triumphantly added “our restaurant serves, Indian food”. 

“That is fine”, I responded “Sintenam”. The lady did a double take. She immediately became a little less patronizing. My Sintenam caught her in the solar plexus. “30-birr sir” she humbly replied “and 45 for a double room”. 

We welcomed her offer. We were paying 70 birr in Bel-Air and that too in a remote location. We liked tourist hotel. It was modern and looked well organized. Yes, in 2003 it had common restrooms but unlike Indian restrooms, the restrooms at Tourist hotel were quite modern and well maintained. We quickly paid a day’s advance and took possession of precious single room.