75 - Greeting each other – Tigers prowling in the compound – Ethiopian journey – Blog Post no – 75.

Hand shaking exists in Ethiopia just like in any other culture. The shaking of hands is done with the right hand, and the left hand would grasp the other person just below the right elbow. Fist bumping and touching each other with bent elbow was also practiced.

Fist bumping was convenient for teachers as most of us had chalk filled hands. We would joke about the duration of each session by the amount of chalk that the teacher carried on his hands and his entire body. The Ethiopian custom of a teacher wearing an apron over his dress made sense. It protected the clothes from too chalk and dust.

After the handshake, most Ethiopian girls would peck at each other’s cheeks – popularly called ‘air kissing’.

An air kiss is executed in a split second. Pranav found it quite embarrassing. The girls would not have any of it! They would envelop him in their arms, and air kiss him, ignoring his vigorous protests.  

Ethiopians engage themselves in an elaborate greeting ritual that could last for as long as a minute or more. The simple greeting, “how are you?’ in most cultures would warrant a half smile or an “I am fine and how are you?”. The entire sequence of greeting is done in a flash and sometimes takes a few seconds! 

Ethiopians are brought up very differently. For them, family, relatives and the tribe to which they belong are very important. They are quite enamoured with the question “how are you?’. This would lead to a discussion about general health and ailments if any. It could also lead to enquiries about the health of immediate and then the extended family too. Asking 'how are you’ is a loaded question. One needs to be patient to listen to the lengthy discussion. A curt ‘I am fine’ is considered uncouth and not being well mannered!

Ethiopians treated money with reverence. Money was very difficult to get, and it commanded great respect. Even shopkeepers would handle it carefully and would feel offended it anyone counted the change that was given . 

I also found Ethiopians quite shy while they eat. They would carefully and frugally fill up their plate and finish it off in silence. They would not go for a refill, and it was quite rare to see they waste food.  

Injera loving Ethiopians eat rice but sparingly. A spoonful with each meal. Once an Ethiopian has finished eating, he would say “I am satisfied”. He is done. They found Indian food very alien especially the sourness. But they quickly got used to Indian delicacies, especially poori and dosa! 

Maids would come dressed fashionably. Maids working in Indian houses treated it like a regular job. They were quite comfortable with sitting at the dining table and sipping tea or coffee along with the hosts!

The ever-aggressive Ethiopian maids were always on the lookout to move up the social ladder. Ebolu once told Padma that young girls wanting to get married got their portfolio shot by enterprising photographers. These portfolios were elaborate affairs with the girl posing in many costumes including the traditional Ethiopian dress, modern dresses like jeans and tops and stunningly even in some what revealing clothes and some time even in shorts and Bikinis!!! All this was a great culture shock for us.  

Ebolu would sometimes come to our house and chitchat with Padma. She was quite fond of her and the kids. Once she casually remarked, “Madam you know, there is a church in Gojjam (The area in and around Bahirdar) where there is a huge fenced yard. This yard had two entrances”.

Knowing that she has the rapt attention of Padma and the kids, Ebolu continued, “It is a matter of faith for the Christians. We would go to the church and enter the yard and walk from one side to the other”. 

Padma was nonplussed, “What’s the big deal, you walk from one side of the yard to the other, so what?”

Ebolu bent forward, the show woman in her, was in full flow. She giggled with nervous excitement, “That is the point, madam! The yard is not empty there are tigers freely prowling the ground!!!”.

“TIGERS!!” yelped Pranav “where did the tigers come from? I thought that Ethiopia only has lions. And would they not attack and kill the faithful?” He was frantic with worry. He could almost imagine the scene and was spooked. 

Ebolu gave a knowing smile. I was later told that she had the smuggest expression any eighteen-year-old teenager could muster, “Madam” she declared dramatically, “The tigers are trained to detect the faithful from the non-faithful. If the person was a pure and devout Christian, he/she would not be harmed. If they were only pretending to be pious, they would be attacked and killed”. 

Padma was not convinced. “Did anyone from your family try this test of Pureness?” she sarcastically enquired. Ebolu was deflated. She sounded like wind escaping from an inflated balloon “I am not sure madam; I am not sure”. 

Then she brightened, “Madam, this place is very close. If your family likes to try out the test of pureness, I can take you there this Sunday”. There was a wicked, naughty glint in her eyes.

Padma dismissed the preposterous idea, “First of all, I don’t think this is factual. Second Ethiopia and tigers look very far fetched. Third and most important, these are Ethiopian tigers, and they are trained to test the pureness of Ethiopian Christians. We can’t risk it.  

We are Indians, and we practice Hinduism. We might or might not be pure Hindus. But the Christianity testing tigers might get confused with testing the purity of Hindus. A job that they are not trained to do! To be on the safe side, they might kill us all. I am sorry, but we don’t want to risk it”. 

Ebolu was disappointed but brightened immediately. She told Padma that she wants to quit working with Tasleem and Neelima. I believe Tasleem told her, “Look Ebolu, we were the ones who gave you employment. We are paying you 100 birr. We have treated you fairly. I have even helped you pay your tuition fees”. Tasleem also added, “When you broke your arm, I was the person who took you to the hospital and got it bandaged”. Tasleem was at her best eloquence.  

Suitably impressed Padma asked “How nice of Tasleem, I am sure you have reconsidered and want to stay back and work with them”. 

“No Madam,” said Ebolu. “this is what I said. Oh, in that case, you break your arm, and I would happily take you to the hospital and get it bandaged” This very matter of fact way of dealing with an emotional situation left Padma speechless.