111 - Galloping in the Tunnels, Culmination of Lalibela tour!

Me Trying to play the church drums, Pranav, Padma, Sahithi, and Anasuya Aunty

111 – “Nelson, The English cricket commentators would scream and Davis Shepard the umpire would keep hopping from one foot to the other, like hop-scotch the minute the cricket score reached 111, 222, 333, 444 and on). 

As we are Indians we don’t have any qualms and we need not hop. Sit back, have a nice cup of coffee, and enjoy! 

I saw T. N. Murthy, oops Dr. T. N. Murthy sir munching on his lunch with a thoughtful expression. Dr.T.N.Murthy was known for his quirky comments, stentorian voice, and funny live commentary. He was the “Charlie Chaplin” of the group. 

I sided up to him and enquired “Doctor Saab, emaindi? (what happened?). Still sporting a worrying expression, he replied, “Anil garu, right from yesterday, I could not even spot one mosquito.  Everyone in Bahirdar was scared that Lalibela was full of mosquitoes. I thought I would take some back as souvenirs. Believing in our Indian community, I even went and bought expensive mosquito repellent cream from New York super market”. 

I almost choked on an inedible piece of potato curry. Seeing my incredulous expression, Padma rushed to my aid with a glass of water. The next two minutes, I was hapless with laughter. It was Dr. Murthy’s expression that was priceless. “Was he happy that he did not encounter any mosquitoes or unhappy that he could not use his expensive mosquito repellent cream?”. Even after eighteen years, his expression is vividly imprinted!

Bridge

Lunch done, we moved on to the five churches that are away from the main cluster. The first church in our post-lunch tour was Beit Gabriel Rafael built on a hillock. And the church was cut off and we had to use a recently constructed wooden bridge to reach it. 

How were the faithful visiting the church before the bridge was built?  No one knows! Knowing the dexterity and the athletic prowess of Ethiopians, I am sure that they would have clambered up and down the hillock slopes with solemn nonchalant, matter-of-fact expressions!  

Padma and Pranav

The Ethiopian calmness of looking at adversity in the eyes and prodding on and on staidly without complaining was a remarkable trait. I was always reminded of John Milton's poem, “On his Blindness “ where he says, “They also serve, who only stand and wait”. 

The church had a shallow pit and inside the pit was a wooden log. Daniel took us to the wooden pit and solemnly explained, “You see the pit, right! You need to lie next to it and with your left hand, you have to lift the heavy wooden log out of the pit without bending the elbow.  And you need to put it back again”.

Understanding our bored expressions, Daniel paused, dramatically, “I am not finished. You need to lift the wooden log without touching any surface and you need to put it back again. IF YOU CAN DO IT, YOU WILL BE GRANTED PERMANENT RESIDENCY IN HEAVEN! YOU WILL NOT HAVE A REBIRTH”. 

Me getting my Permanent Residency!

Once the words were uttered, the Indian contingent sprang into action. Talk of permanent residency (anywhere in the world or in heaven), we need to put our hat into the ring. All including me tried and, to our eternal happiness, we all succeeded! 

Padma Getting Hers!

So P.R (Permanent Residency) was granted to all of us. I am sure that many if not all would have touched the pit’s surface at least once, but the sporting priest and Daniel (the umpires) and the third umpires (our group) were vehement in their opinion that none of us had touched the surface. “you scratch my back and I will scratch yours”.  

Me, Pranav, Daniel our Guide and Jeevanandam Sir 

From that church to the next, Bet Mercurios, we had to pass through a 35 metre (105 foot) tunnel. The tunnel was pitch dark. Luckily we had torches. The tunnel had a musty smell. Pranav stumbled caught the tunnel wall and gave a howl of surprise and horror. He yelled, “Something touched me, something touched me”. Illuminated with the torch, the walls told their own story. The tunnel’s walls were covered by a fine wet moss and Pranav must have thought that someone touched his hand! 

Tunnel Entrance 

Looking on, Daniel remarked, “what is this, you should move fast. In earlier times horses were galloping in these tunnels!” Someone, maybe Kuldeep snorted, “running in the tunnel, they must have had tunnel vision!”. His skepticism was well placed. The tunnel was dark, narrow, and curved, how in the world could horses carrying men move, forget galloping in these tunnels? 

Me, Padma, Pranav, Anasuya Aunty, Sahithi, Tasleem, Jeevan Sir, Geeta madam, and Dr.T.N.Murthy

Finally, we visited Bet Abba Libanos, the church built by King Lalibela’s wife, Mesekel Kibre. It is supposed to be built in a day with the help of angels! All in all, it was a wonderful experience visiting the Lalibela churches, and luckily for us, the street urchins were kept away by alert security personnel.  

 Tired physically but, nourished spiritually we returned back to Hotel Helen. Sahithi who did not like the Lalibela church visits at all demanded chocolate compensation. Daniel’s brother went to the market and bought her chocolates and she was contented. Within a day Daniel and his family had become quite friendly. They invited us to their home (a part of the hotel itself) for buna (coffee ceremony). 

I showed the video recording of the churches on their colour television. They were thrilled. If it was now, I could have copied the MPEG and transferred it to them. But alas it was 2003 and the videocassette was analogue! 

Daniel’s family volunteered to cook rice for our journey. We still had Pulihora Pulusu (courtesy Geeta Madam). That would sustain us till we reach Bahirdar. 

Thus ended our trip. The next day we would be off, returning to Bahirdar. “What about our water ration” I enquired. “we are left with 2 litres of mineral water” snapped Padma. Eating humble pie, I went out and bought mineral water, before Lalibela shuts itself for the night. I am sure that the angels of Lalibela would come out and wander among the Lalibela churches. What a wonderful sight, it would be to catch them move about mystically! - 1017